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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.